Little Dot Mkiii Vs Bottlehead Crack

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Little Dot Mkiii Vs Bottlehead Crack

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Bottlehead Crack AmpThis review page is supported in part by the sponsors whose ad banners are displayed below

 Reader/writer: Timothy Smith
Review component retail: $269 

How many of us have spent an entire Saturday assembling a barbecue or bunch of IKEA furniture? And yet today most of us get 100% of our audio kicks in finished form. Gone are the Dynaco days when teenage boys built kit amps in their garages or basements. Today they are more likely to wave wands at flat-screen TVs from the overfed comfort of their couches. We have become alienated from the means of musical production. Bottlehead Corporation to the rescue. Are you uncomfortable with the idea of low-paid Chinese labour? Look no further than your own—unpaid—labour. As the owner of sixteen Chi-Fi products as well as hifi items from the Czech Republic, the UK, Japan and the USA (but no Canadian ones), I've done my share of contributing to Canada's trade deficit. No longer content to purchase my kit primarily from the (not so) dark satanic mills of Shenzen, in December 2011 I picked up the phone and dialled Bainbridge Island, Washington state. There the friendly folks of Bottlehead hang their hats. With thousands of satisfied customers having left a trail of praise on Bottlehead's user forum and across the web, I was fairly certain that my money would be well spent. After more than two years of listening to this amplifier and demoing it against products from Burson, Musical Paradise, Audiolab, Decware, Little Dot and several others, I am confident that this is the best sub-$300 headphone amp money can buy.

What's in a name? The Crack is designed to hook you on your first try. You can upgrade to the Crack with Speedball. Other DIY kits in the Bottlehead stable include the Single-Ended eXperimenter's headphone and speaker amp, the S.E.X. headphone amp kit, the S.E.X with Extended Foreplay, the Stereomour 2a3/45 stereo amp, the Paramount 300b/2a3 monoblocs, the Quickie battery-powered preamp and the Eros and Seduction phono preamp kits. Bottlehead is nothing if not consistent in its attempt to carve out a distinct house style. In a world filled with attractive model names like the Pioneer SP-BS41-LR—not to be confused with Pioneer's SP-BS21-LR—and the Harbeth Compact 7ES-3, Bottlehead stands out like a breath of fresh air. Or maybe not. The road to sweet single-ended ambrosia led through a thicket of red, white and black wires; the sickly stench of silver-lead solder; and 25 hours of artisanal labour in the man cave punctuated by bouts of sheer frustration.
 My first attempt had resulted in one channel working properly but the other one being totally silent. I went back to the drawing board, pulled out my multi-meter and checked my resistances. All except one—an RCA jack—measured up. I resoldered some joints. And then nothing. The imposing 6080 dual-triode power tube did not light up. It was time to check my voltages. When my wife asked what the risks were in checking those, I said there was virtually no chance of death by electrocution but a slim chance of a high voltage shock. 'Send it back you fool' came the reply. 
 I dutifully returned the completed amp to Washington State for repair. As it happens, I had blown that RCA jack probably by overheating it during some re-soldering. All in all I had waited two months to listen to the music since I had received a 5-keys box of crack in February filled with over 100 parts. Bottlehead claims on its website btw that over 90% of those parts are sourced in the USA. The turnaround at Bottlehead was quick. I have no complaints except perhaps one. Having not soldered in 25 years, I was not one of those who can, as the Bottlehead website suggests, make this amp in just a couple of evenings. And frankly, I doubt that anyone without experience can make this amp in fewer than fifteen hours including the time required to glue, varnish and sand the wooden base.

 But I quibble. Shawn, the friendly technician at Bottlehead who answered my emails in a timely fashion, assured me that my soldering was 'very good' but that I had left a couple of long leads that must be clipped. Apart from the blown RCA jack, my handiwork met the grade. I bet Shawn says that to everyone. After a one-day burn-in and a thorough check of all joints and readings, Bottlehead shipped the amp back to me swaddled in enough bubble wrap to protect against the abuse of North America's ramshackle railroad network. I was out of pocket another $90 but at least knew that I had a properly built amp, certified as it were in the event of resale. Unless you plan to assemble several DIY kits, I cannot understand why anyone would sell their Bottlehead creation. As it happens, builders rarely part with their amps. A quick tour of the web shows that the Crack's basic metal plate design lends itself well to wannabe woodworkers. Crack owners display pride of craftsmanship and ownership. Here's a Tyll Hertsens video on how to roll your own.
Compared to the Little Dot Mk III, the Crack added a little midbass which made the music sound a bit warmer and a little 'richer' in a certain way. However, the lowest bass notes seemed better served by the Little Dot- this gave the Little Dot a tighter bass sound, overall. I'll take a crack at your general questions here, but since I haven't heard either of the two specific amps you mention, I'll have to leave that for others (I landed on the Valhalla 2 for my tube amp after trying a few). First, don't over-think it. Tubes are just a different means to the same ends.
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I read a lot about pairing little dot MK III and Bottlehead Crack amplifiers with the hd650s, but I hardly ever hear anyone suggest any of the DarkVoice amplifiers. I stumble across threads regarding the 336SE model but thats about it, and they're just arguing about the superiority of tubes over solid state in.
Other DIY kits in the Bottlehead stable include the Single-Ended eXperimenter's headphone and speaker amp, the S.E.X. Headphone amp kit, the S.E.X with Extended Foreplay, the Stereomour 2a3/45 stereo amp, the Paramount 300b/2a3 monoblocs, the Quickie battery-powered preamp and the Eros and Seduction phono preamp kits.

Little Dot Mkiii Vs Bottlehead Cracked

Bottlehead Crack AmpThis review page is supported in part by the sponsors whose ad banners are displayed below

 Reader/writer: Timothy Smith
Review component retail: $269 

How many of us have spent an entire Saturday assembling a barbecue or bunch of IKEA furniture? And yet today most of us get 100% of our audio kicks in finished form. Gone are the Dynaco days when teenage boys built kit amps in their garages or basements. Today they are more likely to wave wands at flat-screen TVs from the overfed comfort of their couches. We have become alienated from the means of musical production. Bottlehead Corporation to the rescue. Are you uncomfortable with the idea of low-paid Chinese labour? Look no further than your own—unpaid—labour. As the owner of sixteen Chi-Fi products as well as hifi items from the Czech Republic, the UK, Japan and the USA (but no Canadian ones), I've done my share of contributing to Canada's trade deficit. No longer content to purchase my kit primarily from the (not so) dark satanic mills of Shenzen, in December 2011 I picked up the phone and dialled Bainbridge Island, Washington state. There the friendly folks of Bottlehead hang their hats. With thousands of satisfied customers having left a trail of praise on Bottlehead's user forum and across the web, I was fairly certain that my money would be well spent. After more than two years of listening to this amplifier and demoing it against products from Burson, Musical Paradise, Audiolab, Decware, Little Dot and several others, I am confident that this is the best sub-$300 headphone amp money can buy.

What's in a name? The Crack is designed to hook you on your first try. You can upgrade to the Crack with Speedball. Other DIY kits in the Bottlehead stable include the Single-Ended eXperimenter's headphone and speaker amp, the S.E.X. headphone amp kit, the S.E.X with Extended Foreplay, the Stereomour 2a3/45 stereo amp, the Paramount 300b/2a3 monoblocs, the Quickie battery-powered preamp and the Eros and Seduction phono preamp kits. Bottlehead is nothing if not consistent in its attempt to carve out a distinct house style. In a world filled with attractive model names like the Pioneer SP-BS41-LR—not to be confused with Pioneer's SP-BS21-LR—and the Harbeth Compact 7ES-3, Bottlehead stands out like a breath of fresh air. Or maybe not. The road to sweet single-ended ambrosia led through a thicket of red, white and black wires; the sickly stench of silver-lead solder; and 25 hours of artisanal labour in the man cave punctuated by bouts of sheer frustration.
 My first attempt had resulted in one channel working properly but the other one being totally silent. I went back to the drawing board, pulled out my multi-meter and checked my resistances. All except one—an RCA jack—measured up. I resoldered some joints. And then nothing. The imposing 6080 dual-triode power tube did not light up. It was time to check my voltages. When my wife asked what the risks were in checking those, I said there was virtually no chance of death by electrocution but a slim chance of a high voltage shock. 'Send it back you fool' came the reply. 
 I dutifully returned the completed amp to Washington State for repair. As it happens, I had blown that RCA jack probably by overheating it during some re-soldering. All in all I had waited two months to listen to the music since I had received a 5-keys box of crack in February filled with over 100 parts. Bottlehead claims on its website btw that over 90% of those parts are sourced in the USA. The turnaround at Bottlehead was quick. I have no complaints except perhaps one. Having not soldered in 25 years, I was not one of those who can, as the Bottlehead website suggests, make this amp in just a couple of evenings. And frankly, I doubt that anyone without experience can make this amp in fewer than fifteen hours including the time required to glue, varnish and sand the wooden base.

 But I quibble. Shawn, the friendly technician at Bottlehead who answered my emails in a timely fashion, assured me that my soldering was 'very good' but that I had left a couple of long leads that must be clipped. Apart from the blown RCA jack, my handiwork met the grade. I bet Shawn says that to everyone. After a one-day burn-in and a thorough check of all joints and readings, Bottlehead shipped the amp back to me swaddled in enough bubble wrap to protect against the abuse of North America's ramshackle railroad network. I was out of pocket another $90 but at least knew that I had a properly built amp, certified as it were in the event of resale. Unless you plan to assemble several DIY kits, I cannot understand why anyone would sell their Bottlehead creation. As it happens, builders rarely part with their amps. A quick tour of the web shows that the Crack's basic metal plate design lends itself well to wannabe woodworkers. Crack owners display pride of craftsmanship and ownership. Here's a Tyll Hertsens video on how to roll your own.
Compared to the Little Dot Mk III, the Crack added a little midbass which made the music sound a bit warmer and a little 'richer' in a certain way. However, the lowest bass notes seemed better served by the Little Dot- this gave the Little Dot a tighter bass sound, overall. I'll take a crack at your general questions here, but since I haven't heard either of the two specific amps you mention, I'll have to leave that for others (I landed on the Valhalla 2 for my tube amp after trying a few). First, don't over-think it. Tubes are just a different means to the same ends.
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I read a lot about pairing little dot MK III and Bottlehead Crack amplifiers with the hd650s, but I hardly ever hear anyone suggest any of the DarkVoice amplifiers. I stumble across threads regarding the 336SE model but thats about it, and they're just arguing about the superiority of tubes over solid state in.
Other DIY kits in the Bottlehead stable include the Single-Ended eXperimenter's headphone and speaker amp, the S.E.X. Headphone amp kit, the S.E.X with Extended Foreplay, the Stereomour 2a3/45 stereo amp, the Paramount 300b/2a3 monoblocs, the Quickie battery-powered preamp and the Eros and Seduction phono preamp kits.
Little Dot Mkiii Vs Bottlehead CrackedHow does the Little Dot Mk IV SE differ from the Little Dot Mk III? 
Well, both are OTL (output transformer-less) tube amps, made by Little Dot in China. The Mk IV SE is supposed to be an upgraded version of the Mk III, with a premium price. So what are the differences?
[1] upgraded tubes - instead of stock GE5654s, you get a pair of Mullard M8100s, and also updated 6H30P-i power tubes. It should be noted that my LD Mk III came with stock RCA EF95 tubes (which was a pleasant surprise, because they were 70s vintage. I might have lucked out).
[2] The 1/4 plug on the SE is a Neutrik
[3] The SE has 'upgraded' RCA connectors
[4] The SE has pretty gold tube protectors
[5] The SE has a different volume knob
In theory the Mk IV SE is supposed to have a different ALPS pot than the Mk III, but every internal shot I have seen of the SE has the same pot as my Mk III.
David ZheZhe (Little Dot seller) claims the SE has 'premium circuit component upgrades in key signal path locations'. As to what these upgrades actually are (apart from the ones I noted above), your guess is as good as mine.
So are the differences worth the extra money?
As you start going up the Little Dot product ladder, you begin to slowly start losing the price-performance advantage you have with the Mk III.
You can get M8100s in abundance on ebay for $20-40 for the pair. The upgrade to the Elektro-harmonix 6H30P-i isn't really a deal unless you get a NOS Elektro-harmonix, since the new 'reissued' EH 6H30P from the Reflektor plant are, well, reissues.
If you are upgrading power tubes you might as well get a couple of Novosibirsk Gold Grid 6N6P-i from the 70s/80s (before the Wall came down!) for $10-15 for a pair (keep in mind that driver tubes typically last longer than power tubes, and the Gold Grids with the 'OTK' quality symbol were engineered to last a while).
Who should get this? 
Those that want to experience OTL tube sound, and don't have the money to get a Woo Audio WA3, a Woo Audio WA2 or an Eddie Current Zana Deux.
Also those who own a Sennheiser HD600 or HD650, the pairing is excellent.
Keep in mind that the Little Dot Mk III is a better bang for your buck than the Mk IV SE. Also keep some money aside for tube rolling.
Who should not get this? 
Folks getting their first amp (get a solid state amp!) or those who run orthodynamic headphones as their primary headphone (bad pairing, as are the Beyerdynamic T90 and T1).
Also folks whose budget will not extend to tube rolling.
And this certainly isn't 'endgame' material, if that is your goal.
Folks wanting the ultimate price performance ratio should probably look at the Little Dot Mk III. And those who want a transparent amp without coloration or distortion should not touch this with a 10 foot pole.
Who are the competitors? 
The Bottlehead Crack, of course, although the Crack is a DIY OTL tube amp. And the Valhalla 2 is a serious competitor (gain switch, preamp out) especially if you are looking for a more transparent sound, as is the Woo Audio WA3 (although that costs about 2x the cose of the Mk IV SE).